A Ski in The Park
A Ski in the Park - A European Comparison

I am often asked to compare skiing in the USA, specifically at Winter Park, to that of Europe. When I first skied Winter Park on vacation in 1991, I was so impressed with the Resort I wrote an article drawing comparisons to my skiing experiences in Europe which had been garnered over a period of ten years, skiing with School Groups and friends. What I wrote then remains pertinent today, and for the benefit of our "European-experienced" skiers, and anyone else who may be interested, I have reproduced the article for you here.

Ski in the Park
by Brian Lence

The elation of successfully negotiating the challenge of The Drunken Frenchman - a sobering experience in itself - was followed by a dilemma: what could possibly better that? The only decision clear in my mind on commencing the swift transit up the Summit Express lift, was that it would have to be found on Mary Jane's bumps - a true mogul-maniac's paradise.

But should it be Derailer or Cannonball, Railbender or Trestle, or the "extreme" (check your insurance please!) experience of the Chutes? Glancing left across to my intended area of endeavour however, my mind was made up for me:-

"She was a Phantom of delight,
When first she gleamed upon my sight".

Maybe William Wordsworth didn't have skis on at the time, nor indeed happen to be in Winter Park, Colorado when such inspiration came to mind, but Phantom Bridge beckoned: steep, great snow, and full of bumps.

Colourful trail names down the three mountains of Winter Park, Mary Jane and Vasquez Ridge that make up the Resort, come as a refreshing change to the Black 1's, Red 2's and Blue 3's of so many European resorts I have been to, but then again one finds the American emphasis on this alpine sport so clearly different to certain countries in Europe, and is summed up in Winter Park's motto: "For the love of skiing".

Such an ideal stretches back some 60 years to when the resort was first opened to the paying public, and makes it, surprisingly, the oldest official Colorado ski area. Owned by the City and Council of Denver and operated by an independent volunteer board of directors, there is less a motive for profit than a deep desire to evolve and continually improve facilities by ploughing money back into the resort.

Top-notch facilities are one thing, but we all know that for most people, great snow is the be-all and end-all of any skiing vacation. To kick-start what is more than likely going to be an excellent natural base at the start of the season, snow-making machines are hard at work during October and the first two weeks of November. Certainly, tour operators to Europe like to place special emphasis now on those resorts which have artificial snow-making capabilities in the light of what seems to be never-ending seasons of inadequate snowfall, and to reassure those holidaymakers looking for a "snow guarantee" clause of sorts in their brochure. In Winter Park however, once the season starts, it relies on nature and a great track-record to provide the desired conditions.

I for one prefer the real stuff, and can't fail to take note of the boast "Season after season, Winter Park receives more snowfall -it's a fact", as advertised in their promotional literature. The current 10-year average is 365 inches! Needless to say, almost as much adrenalin is created at the sight of regular helpings of fresh powder during the evening and nighttime, as making those highly prized "fresh tracks" the next morning.

Further, it is easy to become blasé about the surroundings, with tree-lined trails and having in the shape of the Continental Divide, the most spectacular backdrop. And indeed, skiing from an altitude of 12,060 feet and living at 9,000 feet in clean, pine-scented air, does wonders for your fitness.

But to live up to their motto, the Americans here go all out to give us what we would term back home as "the works", with the emphasis at all times on service, and from service comes enjoyment. Right from the moment you join a lift line (queue to us, and if indeed there is one at all), you are looked after with none of that ugly and unpleasant queue-dodging, "worming", or barging techniques that typify so many overcrowded European resorts, and that do little for either a relaxed state of mind, or the as yet unscarred tails of your skis.

How nice it is to have a friendly chat with the lift attendants who concern themselves more with helping you on your way, than with the quality of their tan. Mountain Hosts are on hand for advice or information on any aspect affecting skiing choices in the resort, and the Ski Patrol, which has a #1 rating in the country to it's name, fully live up to their reputation. Here, perhaps more than any other country I have skied in, is stressed the importance of safety, and "Ski Friendly". The ski instruction, for boarders, skiers, adults & children alike, is first-rate. Plus they speak English - or close to it!

The resorts' clear trail maps presents skiing opportunities for all abilities. Tailoring your skiing needs to which mountain you'll be skiing on (or which of the six on-mountain restaurant complexes you'll be meeting in to sample what truly is an excellent choice of food at terrific value for money), is half the fun, as is devising those "combination" runs - switching from one trail to another to get something different during one's descent.

Opportunities also exist for those of a more competitive disposition to race against one another and/or the clock down a slalom course on the Winter Park mountain. There's more than enough in the 134 designated trails on 2,886 acres to keep you happy (plus some great tree-skiing for the bold!). What's more, within these statistics are the 203 acres and 1,030 vertical feet of Parsenn Bowl - first opened in the 1992/93 season.

Classified as "a high alpine bowl for the intermediate skier", there is nothing intimidating about the Bowl. Describing it as "a colossal drive-in movie screen of the gods" as one writer puts it is perhaps a little over-the-top for my liking, but it does complete the picture for the all-terrain skier, looking for more variety than just bumps or cruisers.

The Bowl certainly does that, but my advice is to pick your moments. On a fine day (and even then the chairlift ride up can be a tad chilly around the bindings!), the view is unquestionably majestic. And whilst there are an endless variety of routes to descend, it would be as well to stick to the officially marked trails in early- to mid-season for fear of discovering the many hazards off-piste: rocks and roots just lurking beneath the surface. However, on later-season powder days, the Bowl truly comes into it's own, and memories of "bouncing" through one particular gladed area of deep, fresh, light snow convinces me that this is an addition which will continue to enhance Winter Park's reputation.

In 1998, the Ski Area expanded further with the unveiling of "Vasquez Cirque" - 687 acres of cornices, lips and glades providing a true back-country experience. "Be warned" says the ski area's marketing material. "This place is for experts only". Indeed accessing this terrain at over 12,000 feet is a full workout in itself. You may only have the energy to experience this once!

Further, and always striving to improve, Winter Park invested US$2 million in the Summer of 1993 developing a new "Learn to Ski Park" - 20 acres of prime terrain for adult beginners, children, ski school classes and disabled skiers. Importantly, permanent fencing installed around the upper perimeter of the Learn to Ski Park separates the terrain from more advanced skiers. This is an excellent concept in my view, as so often a beginner's nerve and confidence are shattered by either slopes which are open to all and therefore a feeling of intimidation prevails, or by unthinking skiers who fail to slow and/or give a wide enough berth on passing.

Now, in an era when transatlantic discount flights are cheaper than ever, and with Denver's new International Airport a 9½-hour non-stop transfer from London with British Airways , skiing in the Colorado Rockies has become a more viable alternative to the Alps of Europe, certainly for the more "European-experienced" skier. With Winter Park itself less than a two-hour ground transfer away, skiing the next day becomes a reality, although heed the advice on coping with physical exertion, and alcohol, at this high altitude.

For those wanting the ritzy, razzamataz apre-ski of an Aspen or Vail, well, you could always take your vacation there, but you'll end up paying a good deal more for your skiing and cost of living. Downtown Winter Park is relatively small, spread out along either side of the main highway, but has more to it than first meets the eye, and just enough bars, restaurants and clubs to keep your nightlife occupied.

Accommodation is plentiful and very favourably compared to the European "boxes" one has become accustomed to, catering for all tastes and budgets, from full-board old-fashioned Lodges, like the earliest of them all here - Beaver Lodge, to modern self-catering condominiums, renowned for their spaciousness.

It is easy to applaud, less easy to criticize what's on offer in Winter Park. Skiers used to finishing their final run on the doorstep of their hotel will (with only a couple of exceptions) be disappointed, and although free shuttle buses will get you to and from your accommodation, you need to know your timetable, and time your last run accordingly. Whilst great for moguls, Winter Park is a bit short(!) on long, steep cruisers, and the extreme skiing is either tough to get to, or in the case of the Chutes not always open, often being "skied out" once word has got out that "the gate is open".

However, for us Europeans tempted to make the journey across the pond, you'll be guaranteed a warmer welcome than that reserved for mere patriots, and whilst they may not always understand our particular brand of humour, they really will want you to "enjoy".

Winter Park is finally being discovered in the International sense, but never mentioned in the same breath when reeling off popular Colorado resorts such as Vail, Aspen and Breckenridge. However, Tour Operators have woken up to the fact that Winter Park is a world-class resort offering superb value, and as the centre for the National Disabled Skiers (who make us fully limbed skiers feel humble), it has surely gained prominence, and will undoubtedly continue to do so as a great skiing destination.

During my visits, I am often asked to compare the skiing here to my experiences of Europe. For service, hospitality, friendliness, and "For the love of skiing" - Europe: take note.

And now the fun bit. In true ski panel verdict style, of which I am the only judge - the scoring (marks out of 10).
Snow score10
Attractiveness of resort and surroundings9
Range and Variety of skiing8
Snow grooming, maps, signs, lifts, queues10
Quality and value of food and drink9
Nightlife and facilities on non-ski days7
 
Skiing Statistics
Easy runs25%
Intermediate runs50%
Difficult runs25%

AUTHOR'S NOTE
No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author of this article. September 31, 1993. Revised 5/4/96, 4/23/99, 6/22/00.




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